Set Nib
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Choice, Use and Care of Varnish Brushes
The quality of your varnish finish depends on your brushes, and your choice and care of them must reflect your desire for the very best results. It is all too easy to neglect the brush and remain perplexed why you can¬not get a perfect finish.
Buy a very good brush, and keep it for varnish only. A good width is 50-65mm (2-2-1/2in.), although you will need something narrower for thin mouldings or frame members; natural bristle is on the whole better than synthetic. It should have a tapered shape and a good thickness of bristles, a proportion of them with flagged tips. The wedge between the two rows should not be too wide, or it will keep them separate and prevent the brush from holding a good charge that will flow nicely.
A new brush will always shed bristles when it is first used. Dip it in a mixture of varnish and white spirit (paint thinner) and work the bristles hard against a piece of scrap wood, slap it against the edge of your hand, then dip it and scrub it on the wood again. Straighten out the bristles before they have a chance to set in a tangle. It is also worth drilling a hole in the handle and suspending the bristles from a piece of wire across the top of the jar in a 50/50 varnish/solvent mix.
This ‘keeper’ will also be ideal for work that goes on over several days, allowing you to have the brush ready and not spend time cleaning it after each session. Never stand a brush on its bristles in the jar, they will take on a permanent bend. You can keep a brush soft overnight by soaking it in solvent and wrapping the bristles tight¬ly in silver foil, but these are temporary measures, and not a substitute for proper cleaning.
When you do finally clean the brush, do not skimp. Wipe it hard on newspaper or rags, then pour about 12mm (1/2in.) of solvent into a shallow tin or jar and tamp the brush in it, replacing the cleaner often. Go on doing it until there is no more varnish coming out of the bristles – it stays up by the handle, so be patient. Comb the bristles straight if they are tangled.
Problems with varnish
Apart from the quality of your brush, the other major obstacle to getting a good varnish finish is dust. It is more your enemy with varnish than anything else, because of the slow drying times involved. Damp the floor and sweep up thoroughly first, then try to avoid moving dust at all – even near the room in which you are working – during the whole process. After sanding, clean the work minutely with white spirit and a tack rag. It is inevitable that specks will stick to the coats, but they can be cut back with fine garnet or wet and dry paper, apart from those in the very last coat. If you have the highest standards, de-nib the final coat with wax and wire wool, or for a high gloss, rub it well with rottenstone, felt pad and oil. You can de-nib a satin finish without glossing it by gently stroking the finest wire wool over it, or using the fine abrasive pastes like T-cut or toothpaste. Do not rub the surface so much that it burnishes to a gloss.
About the Author
Now you know about the care and use of varnish brushes. You should also know how to apply varnish and also how are paintballs made.
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